Woodworkers Thread
- Thread starter AgronAlum
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The lockers are 12” deep. Luckily, this was framed as an exterior wall which on my house means 2x6 studs. I built another 2x6 structure behind the wall studs to give me the depth I wanted for the lockers. Then I built another 2x4 structure behind that simply as a place for insulation. The structure sticks out about 10inches into my garage, but I can still store stuff under it and on top of it.
Buy this one if you want a good table saw on a budget.
I have been removing the old wood floors in my parents farm house to be reused in my new house. They are tongue and grooved 3/4” thick, 2 1/2” wide boards. I sanded them some before removing and will have to really sand them after I reinstall them. Removing them is tedious but not bad. The worst part is getting the gunk that is fused to the board right above the tongue. If I don’t remove it there will be a gap between the boards. Anyone have any ideas on getting that stuff off? I’ve been just using a scraper but it is very slow.
Maybe look for a hand plane that fits the notch you’re trying to clean. Depending on what that gunk is, it might beat up the blade too much. Or maybe you could make a small jig with a razor blade?
Anyone know what to look for in wood filler? Gonna be finishing my table top today and I know there’s gonna be some small gaps between the boards I might need to fill. I’m thinking I need something that’s sandable and definitely stainable.
This is the stuff I use. You can get it in a bunch of different tones. That being said, it says stainable but I’m not sure how stainable it really is. I only use it when I’m painting.
I would do a little research on this application. Without looking it up, my intuition would give me pause to put wood filler between boards. Those boards are going to expand and contract on their own. They will do that at a different magnitude than the filler material, I would guess. So you still may end up with cracks after a few years. Depending on the type and function of table you made, small gaps between the boards wouldn’t be a big deal, in my mind.
Also, matching the stain on the boards and the filler together is going to be tough. You might get it close enough that it doesn’t matter, but you could also end up with a striped table.
After farting around with it for a couple hours and what I’ve researched online, I’ve kind of come to this same conclusion. I’m gonna try and just sand down the “high” spots and make it get as close as I can to flush and then leave it. My belt sander crapped out on me though so I’m headed to buy another one.
Try a heat gun and a pull type scraper. A lot of that old glue is a hide glue and gets soft when you heat it up.
what’s the best way to get a good baseboard miter-cut? I have a decent hand saw and a miter box (which is too short for our 4-5/8” baseboard). First time was a failure as I could get it to line up well without sanding and cutting more out until I had took too much off and the other end was too short.
Is the solution just a good compound miter saw?
Is the solution just a good compound miter saw?
A good miter saw goes a long way doing trim. You don’t need an expensive one, just one where the fence is trued up. If you’re looking to buy one, what’s your price point? You could probably get by with 100 dollar Metabo if you don’t use it much.
Is it painted? Caulking can cover up a lot doing painted trim and comes out looking just fine.
I will be painting it. I’ve caulked a couple pieces so far but my outside corner piece is pitiful. I have more to do so am thinking of getting a compound miter saw to make things easier. Price point isn’t an issue. I dont want to drop a grand on one but don’t want a cheap one that gives me crappy cuts either.
If that’s the case, this one would do really well but Bosch, Makita, Metabo and Rigid make some good saws too at certain price points. Don’t get a slider if you don’t think you’ll need it. They’re a lot more of a pain to store and they’re heavy (plus more money).
DEWALT 15 Amp Corded 12 in. Compound Double Bevel Miter Saw DWS716 - The Home Depot
Finish your all toughest works easily with the selection of this DEWALT Corded Compound Double Bevel Miter Saw. Forward and reverse switch.
www.homedepot.com
Keep an eye on Craigslist. Recently, there was a DeWalt non slider for I think $150. I've seen them several times for $250. I have the DeWalt non slider and really like it and would suggest that as a brand option.
Inside or outside corners? I am a firm believer in coping the inside corners, especially in an old house (easier than figuring out the angles. I also would recommend a compound miter saw. Saves so much time, and if its something you will use for any type of project in the future it is well worth the investment.
Outside corners are a little more annoying, if its not a true 90 you need to do a little trial and error, and every corner will be different.
outside is the one giving me fits. I have more inside to do though and I’m planning on coping those also.