Fertilizing my lawn for initial spring application

You're f*cked unless you do it right and stay on it. If you even half-ass or even 3 quarters-ass it, you won't beat it.

My neighbor leaves his grass long for pollinators. Apparently pollinators like snow also, because he doesn't shovel his sidewalks either.

I'm at constant war with his creeping charlie. I do the 2X spray in the fall, and it looks like it kinda worked last year. Though, it is a little early to tell. I can't remember if I used diacamba or triclophyr, but I think it was the latter.
 
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What have people had luck with for getting rid of creeping Charlie??
From ISU Extension: A combination of postemergence herbicides containing 2,4-D, dicamba, MCPP and triclopyr provides the best potential control.

 
I've heard T Zone works well. Has a mix of triclopyr, 24-D, and dicamba. Pretty spendy though.
T Zone about a day before the first fall frost is the best bet - even then its not a 100% guarantee to completely kill it. The frost causes the plants to push the chemical down into the roots, and with creeping charlie you have to kill the roots to kill the plant. You can try to manually pull it as long as you want, but unless you get all of the root system it'll keep initiating growth from the parts that are left. Chemicals like roundup will make it look like you've killed it because it'll burn off the above ground portion but it will keep returning.

The most effective way (From what I've been told) is actually to smother it - Cover with a tarp or black plastic for a couple of weeks. The downside of this is it kills everything under the cover, and most people don't want to sacrifice the grass they have to get rid of the CC.
 
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For those dethatching, how often do you do that? Every year, every couple years? Do you also align that with fall aeration? Grass at our previous house was so thin it wasn't ever needed. Our current place seems like it's restricting growth this spring.

And do you own equipment or rent it? Manual rakes vs pull behind a riding mower?
 
Spray and remove as much manually as you can.
How big is the patch? If not too big, This ^ - Hit it hard with weed-be-gone and after watering or a rain pull the runners at least and keep using weed-be-gone and will brown and die out. My wife bought some stuff supposedly just for it and I think it was CC fertilizer.

IF you can find the old metal cans of weed-be-gone I saw as a kid, it is awesome. I bought some old cans of K-grow cheap at a garage sale in town a few years ago. Thick as jagermeister and worked great with the chemicals in it not allowed now. My daughter and her husband bought a nice house but the previous owners obviously didn't care about weedy lawn. A lot of CC, clover and crab grass. He and I used up the cans there and we reseeded. It shaped up after a three years but he did use the old stuff. It is looking real good this spring.
 
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These two spots are along the north side of the house foundation. Things were fine last fall but coming out of the spring and these are dead spots. Is this a disease or something else? Anyone had this experience?
 
It’s my understanding that the no mow may is to help pollinators.

We plant more than enough flowers to make of for the dandelions

I have never considered the pollinator thing. I guess I can rationalize my way out of this. We plant more than enough flowers to make of for the dandelions we don't have. But we enjoy the hobby. My wife hates bees so when we are outside we sit away from the flowers and enjoy them from a distance. A bee or wasp cant get within 10 feet of her without her standing up and swatting air. Yes we have pollinators without dandelions.

I have a side yard on a slanted-hill that I allow to grow into tall-grass prairie. Plenty of natural flowers there for the bees.

Maybe we could all have a small set-aside area with some flowers for the poliators, and keep our lawn for grass???
 
What have people had luck with for getting rid of creeping Charlie??
Herbicide with triclopyr and dicamba, one brand name product is Gordon's Brush Killer. Mix at 4-5 oz/gallon, best either spring when actively growing or fall prior to dormancy. Don't expect it to curl up and turn brown, will see it turn purplish.

Mechanical removal is about impossible. Heavy mulch might smother some, and/or cause shallow rooting that makes it easier but missing even a little bit will bring regrowth.
 
I put down a bunch of seed two weeks ago and I’ve been watering twice a day, but now I’m going to shift to once a day. When is the best time to water if you’re only gonna water once a day in the morning or the evening?
 
I put down a bunch of seed two weeks ago and I’ve been watering twice a day, but now I’m going to shift to once a day. When is the best time to water if you’re only gonna water once a day in the morning or the evening?
This time of year I don't think it matters. When it starts actually warming up, I would say night is best to maximize your effort.
 
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After you guys put your initial fertilizer/crabgrass preventer down, how long before you fertilize again? I know there is different schools of thought here.
 
This time of year I don't think it matters. When it starts actually warming up, I would say night is best to maximize your effort.
I would advise against at night when it’s warm or if you’re going to do that at least stop once it gets humid out. If you water at night when it is hot and humid and the lawn doesn’t dry properly before the sun goes down you could develop some fungal issues. Usually morning is best for watering but if you’re going to do it at night make sure you don’t do it too late in the evening.
 
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I would advise against at night when it’s warm or if you’re going to do that at least stop once it gets humid out. If you water at night when it is hot and humid and the lawn doesn’t dry properly before the sun goes down you could develop some fungal issues. Usually morning is best for watering but if you’re going to do it at night make sure you don’t do it too late in the evening.
Username checks out
 
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I would advise against at night when it’s warm or if you’re going to do that at least stop once it gets humid out. If you water at night when it is hot and humid and the lawn doesn’t dry properly before the sun goes down you could develop some fungal issues. Usually morning is best for watering but if you’re going to do it at night make sure you don’t do it too late in the evening.
Wouldn't that be more for gardens or ornamental plants than a your general lawn?
 
Wouldn't that be more for gardens or ornamental plants than a your general lawn?
No it can definitely be an issue in your lawn. It’s not a guarantee you might be fine watering your lawn at night when it’s warm, I would just water in the morning if possible to avoid the risk.
 
Another question, I seeded and put down straw exactly 2 weeks ago. I assume I should start to see grass growing any day right? Also how long does it take for the straw to decompose?
 

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