When do you think you will buy a 100% pure electric vehicle?
- Thread starter dmclone
- Start date
Some screen shots that may be beneficial
Car sitting in the garage. Car is plugged in and sitting at 79%. Every few days it will drop a percent or two if you don't drive it but it will kick in and get you back up to 80%.
Turn on the heat or you can schedule it to turn on before you leave for work and it will set it to whatever temp you last used.
Around 5 minutes later, heating has been completed.
The percentages you see at the top are my phones battery
Car sitting in the garage. Car is plugged in and sitting at 79%. Every few days it will drop a percent or two if you don't drive it but it will kick in and get you back up to 80%.
Turn on the heat or you can schedule it to turn on before you leave for work and it will set it to whatever temp you last used.
Around 5 minutes later, heating has been completed.
The percentages you see at the top are my phones battery
Does it need to be plugged in the whole time?Some screen shots that may be beneficial
Car sitting in the garage. Car is plugged in and sitting at 79%. Every few days it will drop a percent or two if you don't drive it but it will kick in and get you back up to 80%.
View attachment 122304
View attachment 122306
Turn on the heat or you can schedule it to turn on before you leave for work and it will set it to whatever temp you last used.
View attachment 122307
View attachment 122308
Around 5 minutes later, heating has been completed.
View attachment 122309
The percentages you see at the top are my phones battery
No, not at all. If you do it at Hy-Vee, it will just be using the battery instead. I'm not sure how much battery it would use but I would guess less than a couple of percent. Really it's a lot like remote start on a normal vehicle. The garage scenario above would be like if you had remote started but filling your tank up at the same time. Kind of
This stuff has been my day job for the past 6ish months or so. Part of it is the battery management and part of it is the cell temp. The battery C rates (how fast they can charge/discharge) are dependent on temperature and state of charge. Air temp doesn't mean much but battery cell temp does and what it can to at different temps changes if you're in charge mode or discharge mode. The battery packs I'm working on will take 3-4 days in -20C air temps to get the point where discharge is a problem because they're so big. If you're plugged in then the thermal management on the vehicle should take care of that all in the background and you'll never know it's an issue. Again this will vary between the cells (Panasonic vs LG or whatever) and the battery management will make some decisions in the background but -20C cell temp (not air temp) is where you're going to lose the ability to discharge the battery in most cases.
Now I'm curious and will try to find the datasheet for my cells
But I think the big factor for me is that in my use case I need very very little current, especially compared to vehicles. I can be way down the curve on temp/C and still be comfortably within my needs.
It would be interesting to take an EV total cost and an ICE total cost and break down what the cost per mile was on each over the life of a vehicle. Although in the end it would still be a little guessing since things like knowing electric cost/gas costs will be; things like that.
A lot of those studies have been done already. Over the lifespan of a vehicle, an EV is cheaper is most circumstances.
Those studies would have to include the maintenance costs since EVs are much cheaper to maintain.
They do.
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www.caranddriver.com
That's just one. A few groups have done big studies including manufacturing, etc.
You can also click the link at the end and compare cars and how much they cost to own per year.
I've been using software to do just that. It really depends a lot on how much you charge at home and what your energy costs are. 95% of the time I'm charging at home and it costs me 11 cents per KwH. This equates to $3.56 per 100 miles. So 12k miles per year would cost me $427.20. If I drive my SUV, which gets around 21 miles per gallon, I would use 571 gallons of fuel, which at $3 gallon would be $1,700. But then I have to pay extra taxes because I drive an EV, so take off $130. So roughly $1,000 year.
So in summary, it's going to take awhile to see a big savings. I much prefer driving an EV so even if it costs more than a gas vehicle, I would choose an EV.
Of course there are many other cost factors
- Less maintenance
- Charger install
- Higher insurance rate
- $7,500 tax deduction
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I stated it before, but from 12-6am when I have my charger set up to charge my Rivian, I'm at $.028 kWh. Other times of the day its around $.09 kWh on average.
There have been issues with the Superchargers here locally reported on the Iowa Tesla Owners FB group, but no complete outages. Issues like iced up plugs at the WDM, 2nd Ave. and Grinnell Superchargers, and I saw a pic of at least one pedestal that appears to have been hit and damaged by a plow. Part of the issue is that the plugs/cables don't always stay attached to their clip/latch when you put it back after use, and can be blown off by the wind. They end up laying in snow and that's not good.
Not sure if there are any issues at the Altoona Supercharger location. Tesla is usually pretty good about getting out and fixing up issues like these so I'm sure they'll be at full capacity again soon.
I'm also fairly certain there is some embellishment in that report of how bad those issues actually are in Chicago.
Not sure if there are any issues at the Altoona Supercharger location. Tesla is usually pretty good about getting out and fixing up issues like these so I'm sure they'll be at full capacity again soon.
I'm also fairly certain there is some embellishment in that report of how bad those issues actually are in Chicago.
I think this is going to depend on your manufacturer, warranty, where you live, rebates, gas prices and how you use it.
as remote worker, my 35mpg non EV sonata with 60K bumper to bumper warranty is pretty hard to beat.
Staying with Hyundai, A sonata base model starts at 25K.
The Sonata Hybrid is a few thousand more and the comparable Iconic EV sedan starts at 43K Base model.
Plus, I would want my garage to have a level 2 or 3 charger which is a startup cost also.
Sticking with Hyundai I am at 15-20K more right out of the gate for the EV. Thats like 8 years of gas for me if I put a full tank of gas in my car every week which I don't come close to doing. And charging my EV is not as expensive as Gas, but it still cost money.
I understand there could be rebates and incentives going EV that I am not mentioning, my point is, its not all unicorns and rainbows and may just depend on your situation.
I have also heard some horrible stories on the warranty of the batteries on certain manufacturers that still scares me a bit living in the north.
So my answer for someone like me moving to a complete EV Vehicle:
Get the prices down on EV's
get the infrastructure implemented so there is better availability of charging on the roads.
There really hasn't been a huge push for EV until the last few years, so I want to see a Life cycle replacement feedback of those before diving in.
just my opinion though..
