Woodworkers Thread

[wintersmd]

More than 4 hrs....

Bought it about a month ago and it’s been sitting in my garage.

When your talking about joints, what kind of joints exactly? Clamping these2x10s isn’t allowing me to “move” it obviously like a smaller board.

I would put a clamp about every 4-6 inches. You also may want to make sure that you are alternating the way the grain runs. This will help keep the top aligned and reduce warpage.

 

[AgronAlum]

I did it like that for a long time until I got a jointer. I made a jig out of a piece of 1/2 hardboard and used the factory edge for a pattern bit on my router. It wasn’t perfect but it worked.
In a pinch a sharp number 5 bench plane will do wonders too. The best part about those is you can buy an old Stanley Bailey for $30 all day long. A little elbow grease cleaning it and sharpening it will amaze you.

I’ve never made a real jig for squaring stuff up. I’ve got scraps around with the factory edge for longer pieces but normally use either a bora or emerson brand straight edge or a 6 ft level clamped to the work piece.

I wish I knew more about hand planes and that they weren’t as expensive as they are. I have no idea what’s good, what’s crap and what’s good enough. I have zero hand planes in my shop but I wish I did.

I have to borrow a table saw when I need it so I’m a ‘use what you got’ type of woodworker. Two kids and another on the way will do that to ya. The wife won’t sign off on a real table saw and would probably freak if I went around and added up the rest of what’s in the shop that I bought a little bit at a time.

 

[AgronAlum]

I would put a clamp about every 4-6 inches. You also may want to make sure that you are alternating the way the grain runs. This will help keep the top aligned and reduce warpage.

@JM4CY Another note, picture or draw a 45 degree angle from each clamp face across the work piece to the glue joint. Those 45 degree angles should overlap just a little bit. Wider boards need clamps less frequently. You will be able to see it in the glue squeezout if the glue is applied evenly. Also, alternate clamps top to bottom.

I made a little drawing since I’m bored waiting for some stuff to dry in the shop. Hopefully it makes sense.

 

[mramseyISU]

I’ve never made a real jig for squaring stuff up. I’ve got scraps around with the factory edge for longer pieces but normally use either a bora or emerson brand straight edge or a 6 ft level clamped to the work piece.

I wish I knew more about hand planes and that they weren’t as expensive as they are. I have no idea what’s good, what’s crap and what’s good enough. I have zero hand planes in my shop but I wish I did.

I have to borrow a table saw when I need it so I’m a ‘use what you got’ type of woodworker. Two kids and another on the way will do that to ya. The wife won’t sign off on a real table saw and would probably freak if I went around and added up the rest of what’s in the shop that I bought a little bit at a time.

Hand planes don’t have to be expensive a number 5 jack plane shouldn’t set you back more than $50 for a decent one. I might even have an extra one I’d sell for that if you’re interested. I went a little nuts with them a few years back and have some spares. If you search Facebook marketplace for them you shouldn’t have any trouble finding them on there either. Just starting out look for Stanley Baileys there are other ones out there just as good but you have to know what you’re looking for.

 

[AgronAlum]

Hand planes don’t have to be expensive a number 5 jack plane shouldn’t set you back more than $50 for a decent one. I might even have an extra one I’d sell for that if you’re interested. I went a little nuts with them a few years back and have some spares. If you search Facebook marketplace for them you shouldn’t have any trouble finding them on there either. Just starting out look for Stanley Baileys there are other ones out there just as good but you have to know what you’re looking for.

I haven’t had a Facebook in years and Craigslist is a joke for the most part. I’m definitely interested since you seem to know them fairly well. I’ll PM you.

 

[BWRhasnoAC]

Jointer and planer is typically recommended for seaming wood together. You can do it without it but takes a long time.

 

[Dr.bannedman]

brothers. i wanna do this: https://rvshare.com/blog/custom-teardrop/

 

[AgronAlum]

brothers. i wanna do this: https://rvshare.com/blog/custom-teardrop/

Looks like a nice weekend project.

 

[Dr.bannedman]

Looks like a nice weekend project.

lol I think its do able right?! after looking at the price of teardrop campers ($13k)?!??!


why the f not!

 

[ISU_phoria]

Need help fellas. Here’s a table I’m working on. There will be breadth pieces put on I haven’t cut yet. I ran those boards through a table saw I borrowed from a buddy and there is still play and lots of daylight between those boards. Maybe this is normal? Maybe I’m an idiot? Or some combo is likely too. Anyway, my next thought is to belt sand the spots of those long joints so they are more flush before I use some kind of biscuit joiner/kreg jig combo to join them. The other part that pisses me off is that I didn’t account for the saw blade width so now I need to trim off just a little bit of those 4x4 cross pieces so they are flush with the top. Any pointers would be awesome. View attachment 80206

Look up on YouTube a "jointing jig" or "jointing sled" for the table saw. They are very easy to make and will help make very tight joints. (If you have a glue line rip blade for the saw, that helps too, but not necessary).

If you live in the Twin Cities, I'd be happy to lend you mine!

 

[Rods79]

brothers. i wanna do this: https://rvshare.com/blog/custom-teardrop/

Build-your-own Teardrop Camper Kit and Plans

 

[JM4CY]

Look up on YouTube a "jointing jig" or "jointing sled" for the table saw. They are very easy to make and will help make very tight joints. (If you have a glue line rip blade for the saw, that helps too, but not necessary).

If you live in the Twin Cities, I'd be happy to lend you mine!

Is this like what you made?

 

[wintersmd]

brothers. i wanna do this: https://rvshare.com/blog/custom-teardrop/

I know a guy that made a couple of these. He absolutely loves them. I have often thought about making one for weekend adventures.

 

[qwerty]

Did you run the edges of the boards through a jointer or planner to make sure they are flat and square??? Also, I have never made a table like this, but know someone who did. Make sure you glue the joints completely with biscuits. He used just pocket screws with minimal glue and the top boards warped on him. That caused major gaps in the joints.

I made an almost identical table last summer and used Kreg pocket screws to draw and hold the top planks together, albeit I used like 9-10 screws per plant. So far, everything is good. My top planks were just 2x10 from Menards too.

 

[dmclone]

Kind of off topic but if you need lighting in your workshop, I'd highly recommend these lights. I put these 8 footers in yesterday and it is crazy the amount of light they put out.

Barrina LED Shop Light, 8FT 72W 9000LM 5000K, Daylight White, V Shape, Clear Cover, Hight Output, Linkable Shop Lights, T8 LED Tube Lights, LED Shop Lights for Garage 8 Foot with Plug (Pack of 10) - - Amazon.com

It's hard to show with a picture but here is one I took

 

[ISU_phoria]

Is this like what you made?

Yes, very similar. I just used fixed clamps instead of the t track. Same principle though.

One thing that video doesn't mention in that you only need to run one side of the board on the jig. Then, when you have a straight edge from using the jig, you can just use that straight edge against your normal rip fence to get two straight and parallel edges.

Hope this helps!

 

[CycloneBob]

Numerous good suggestions here. IMO and current thought is biscuits add very little strength and are used mostly for alignment. If you want to add strength, use pocket screws. Also, a good rip blade will give you a good sufficient glue edge without needing a joiner. I'd keep running the boards through the table saw, taking off a minimal amount, and dry fitting until there's minimal gaps, doing all boards. Mark the boards, then glue them up one at a time using a lot of clamps. Don't wipe off any glue that squeezes out. Let it dry, then scrape off with a sharp straight edge.

 

[CyJeans]

I’ve never made a real jig for squaring stuff up. I’ve got scraps around with the factory edge for longer pieces but normally use either a bora or emerson brand straight edge or a 6 ft level clamped to the work piece.

I wish I knew more about hand planes and that they weren’t as expensive as they are. I have no idea what’s good, what’s crap and what’s good enough. I have zero hand planes in my shop but I wish I did.

I have to borrow a table saw when I need it so I’m a ‘use what you got’ type of woodworker. Two kids and another on the way will do that to ya. The wife won’t sign off on a real table saw and would probably freak if I went around and added up the rest of what’s in the shop that I bought a little bit at a time.

Start off with a block plane, you will find a lot of use for it flushing things or putting a chamfer on edges. After that, check out ebay too. You can get some nice older planes that just need a little love and rust removed. The older ones are better unless you spend a fortune on Lie Nielsen or Lee Valley planes.

 

[AgronAlum]

Those of you that have air filtration systems, how dirty do you let the filter get before swapping them out? Do you take them out and blow them down? This is what the filter looks like after only about a couple hours of run time.

 

[mramseyISU]

Those of you that have air filtration systems, how dirty do you let the filter get before swapping them out? Do you take them out and blow them down? This is what the filter looks like after only about a couple hours of run time.

View attachment 80389

I clean mine out every couple months or so.