Woodworkers Thread

[clone4life82]

Going to buy this butcher block from the restore, stain it espresso, and seal it nice to make a desk.

Butcher Block - Pine

Clear pine butcher block countertop1-3/4" x 25" x 96" Keywords: countertop, counter top

euclidrestore.org

Anyone, know where to get cheap drawner units like the one in this pic?

Walmart, office max, online... we ordered three from Walmart online and grabbed a couple butcher block slabs at Home Depot and did the same thing at the start of the pandemic to set up a couple desks for our kids. Turned out useful and it’s been handy but it honestly ended up being more expensive than I was hoping (as well more work as it was my first time finishing any woodwork). I don’t have any pictures on this phone otherwise I’d drop a couple here for you to see.

 

[AgronAlum]

What is everyone’s opinion on Amana Tool router bits? I picked a couple up at the woodsmith store this weekend but don’t know much about them. It looks like the company is from New York but the bits are made in Israel.

 

[CyJeans]

What is everyone’s opinion on Amana Tool router bits? I picked a couple up at the woodsmith store this weekend but don’t know much about them. It looks like the company is from New York but the bits are made in Israel.

I've heard good things about the quality.

 

[AgronAlum]

I've heard good things about the quality.

That’s what I was hoping. The Freud, Timberline and Amana bits they carry were all around the same price for the bits I was was looking for. I do like that the Freud’s come with a plastic or wood case instead of the pouch the Amanas came in, especially when one of them came with 6 different bearings.

 

[throwittoblythe]

That’s what I was hoping. The Freud, Timberline and Amana bits they carry were all around the same price for the bits I was was looking for. I do like that the Freud’s come with a plastic or wood case instead of the pouch the Amanas came in, especially when one of them came with 6 different bearings.

I don’t know Amana, but I buy bits from MLCS woodworking online. They have a great selection and all their orders are free shipping.

 

[throwittoblythe]

Alright fellas, one more sawquestion as I compile my wishlist for Santa. I need replace this little guy. (Don’t laugh) Any suggestions?

This wasn’t your question, but I’m just tossing it out there. DO NOT buy the Kreg rip cut jig for a circular saw. I bought it when I was first getting started because I couldn’t afford a track saw. Kreg makes some great stuff, but that thing is hot garbage. I never got straight cuts with it and it often caused my saw to bind.

https://www.rockler.com/kreg-rip-cu...lar-saws?country=US&sid=V91040&promo=shopping

 

[dosry5]

Alright fellas, one more sawquestion as I compile my wishlist for Santa. I need replace this little guy. (Don’t laugh) Any suggestions?View attachment 78781

My advice, so take it for what it’s worth....if you’re trying to get into wood working, a circular saw isn’t that important. For construction? Very important. For wood working? At least for me, I rarely use one. I use the table saw and band saw 100X more. I really only break down sheet goods with them and maybe a few other tasks now and then that don’t feel safe on a table saw. So I got a small battery operated one for ease of use and mobility. I still have a junk Ryobi one for hacking crap off when I need it.

 

[dosry5]

What is everyone’s opinion on Amana Tool router bits? I picked a couple up at the woodsmith store this weekend but don’t know much about them. It looks like the company is from New York but the bits are made in Israel.

I’ll preface this by saying I like the the Woodsmith store and buy wood there all the time.....BUT, if you can buy a product elsewhere, you will absolutely save money, often significantly so. Titebond for example, I buy it by the large bottle size (gallon?), and it’s like $10 cheaper at Home Depot. I buy a resin kit from Menards that is $30 cheaper than the same thing at Woodsmith. It’s crazy.

 

[CyJeans]

This wasn’t your question, but I’m just tossing it out there. DO NOT buy the Kreg rip cut jig for a circular saw. I bought it when I was first getting started because I couldn’t afford a track saw. Kreg makes some great stuff, but that thing is hot garbage. I never got straight cuts with it and it often caused my saw to bind.

https://www.rockler.com/kreg-rip-cu...lar-saws?country=US&sid=V91040&promo=shopping

The most likely reason your saw is binding is that the blade is not square or toed out. There are a lot of reasons that could be happening outside of the product as well. I would start by checking the squareness of your blade on your circular saw and then the squareness of it on the ripcut. If your ripcut truly is out of square, contact the Kreg customer service and they will either send you a new one or give you a refund I bet, they definitely want to keep their customers happy.

I am not saying your experience wasn't a bad one with the product but it is possible you just got a reject that didn't get caught, even the most thorough quality checks miss them from time to time. I know that they sell a ton of the rip cuts.

 

[CyJeans]

I’ll preface this by saying I like the the Woodsmith store and buy wood there all the time.....BUT, if you can buy a product elsewhere, you will absolutely save money, often significantly so. Titebond for example, I buy it by the large bottle size (gallon?), and it’s like $10 cheaper at Home Depot. I buy a resin kit from Menards that is $30 cheaper than the same thing at Woodsmith. It’s crazy.

I don't shop at the woodsmith store to save money, I shop there because I know if I have a problem or question they have a ton of knowledge. For a lot of the name brand stuff they sell, the prices won't be all that different though, that is controlled by the retailer for the most part.

 

[AgronAlum]

I’ll preface this by saying I like the the Woodsmith store and buy wood there all the time.....BUT, if you can buy a product elsewhere, you will absolutely save money, often significantly so. Titebond for example, I buy it by the large bottle size (gallon?), and it’s like $10 cheaper at Home Depot. I buy a resin kit from Menards that is $30 cheaper than the same thing at Woodsmith. It’s crazy.

I completely agree you can find stuff cheaper elsewhere. I typically buy things from Woodsmith if comparable items aren’t sold locally (partly because it’s a 25 min drive to get there). This weekend was a couple router bits and a new flush cut hand saw. I have no issue spending a few extra bucks on that stuff like that to keep a store like that around in Des Moines. Plus it’s nice going there for things like bits knowing they’re going to have what you’re looking for.

 

[dosry5]

I completely agree you can find stuff cheaper elsewhere. I typically buy things from Woodsmith if comparable items aren’t sold locally. This weekend was a couple router bits and a new flush cut hand saw. I have no issue spending a few extra bucks on that stuff like that to keep a store like that around in Des Moines. Plus it’s nice going there for things like bits knowing they’re going to have what you’re looking for.

I shop there too, a lot. And I want them to stay open. But I can’t justify some of their prices. I’m not rich or even well off, so if I can save $30 on the exact same product I will. I buy specialty saw blades there, some jig parts, way too much wood, and bought my saw stop and Laguna bandsaw there. But if I’m a beginning wood worker trying to set up or stock a shop and money is an issue, I’m looking at other options too.

 

[AgronAlum]

I don't shop at the woodsmith store to save money, I shop there because I know if I have a problem or question they have a ton of knowledge. For a lot of the name brand stuff they sell, the prices won't be all that different though, that is controlled by the retailer for the most part.

Pricing is hit or miss. Stuff like the Kreg section is probably what you can buy things for elsewhere. I was looking at the Bessey clamps this weekend and it was significantly cheaper to head down the road to Home Depot and get them. I feel like their power tools are pretty in line with most places. I started getting most of my stain and fillers and stuff from there because they carry better brands like General Finishes and Old Masters.

 

[throwittoblythe]

The most likely reason your saw is binding is that the blade is not square or toed out. There are a lot of reasons that could be happening outside of the product as well. I would start by checking the squareness of your blade on your circular saw and then the squareness of it on the ripcut. If your ripcut truly is out of square, contact the Kreg customer service and they will either send you a new one or give you a refund I bet, they definitely want to keep their customers happy.

I am not saying your experience wasn't a bad one with the product but it is possible you just got a reject that didn't get caught, even the most thorough quality checks miss them from time to time. I know that they sell a ton of the rip cuts.

These are good points. I checked and re-checked that thing over and over again because Kreg products are usually quite good. I just couldn't believe how bad it was performing. I honestly think the issue was in the design of the jig. The edge guide is made of plastic and just allows too much play when you're trying a long cut cut. If you get off course even a little bit, the saw binds. I tried many different ways to get this to work: cut slow, cut fast, multiple passes, moving where I applied pressure during the cut, check the squareness of blade and of the jig, etc, etc. It got so frustrated that I found I could do way better with long cuts by just snapping a line and following it free-hand. I watched lots of youtube videos on it, as well. I'm the kind of person that assumes I'm doing something wrong if something is not working. However, after such a bad experience, I came to the conclusion that it was the jig, so I stopped using it. I now have a track saw so I don't even need it.

 

[qwerty]

I am going to buy this tool next year.

 

[AgronAlum]

Well all the router talk made me pick up one of these. Got it off my FIL that used it for one job, one time. I’ve only done a couple test zips with it but it’s soooo much easier to maneuver than my big one. The only bad part is I picked up more bits with 1/2 inch shanks than I probably should have. Now I’m going to have to buys bits I already have with 1/4 inch shanks on them.

 

[AgronAlum]

How many of you are members of the Des Moines Woodworkers Club? Is it worth joining? Is it a good club for what they would call intermediate level woodworkers like myself?

 

[CyJeans]

How many of you are members of the Des Moines Woodworkers Club? Is it worth joining? Is it a good club for what they would call intermediate level woodworkers like myself?

I am a member. I don't utilize it as much as I should. You get a discount at woodsmith, Ace, and a few other places in Des Moines. You do get emails with people selling tools and wood every once in a while too.

 

[AgronAlum]

I am a member. I don't utilize it as much as I should. You get a discount at woodsmith, Ace, and a few other places in Des Moines. You do get emails with people selling tools and wood every once in a while too.

Have you gone to any meetings or classes? That’s what I’m most interested in. I’m at the level where I’d like to fine tune some of the skills I already have. I also need some pointers on finishing.

 

[CyJeans]

Have you gone to any meetings or classes? That’s what I’m most interested in. I’m at the level where I’d like to fine tune some of the skills I already have. I also need some pointers on finishing.

No, I haven't. I do want to do the classes though, all of that got cancelled or postponed I believe with COVID?