No you can use pretty much any 10” sawblade you want. You do have to have different brakes for a regular blade vs a dado blade.
Woodworkers Thread
- Thread starter AgronAlum
- Start date
I was reading some reviews of people who have been saved by the brake. Their recommendation was to buy a new blade. At least two mentioned they sharpened the blade only to have it fragment upon use and re-trigger the brake again. I'd assume there is a high potential for the blade to have fractures/stresses in the metal that you can't see with your naked eyes. Not sure I'd want something spinning at those speeds to potentially frag out on me
I might guess the old piece is something other than oak... it looks like relatively modern trim, so I might suspect stained poplar. Possibly maple, but the slight greenish tint on the end grain makes it look more like poplar to me. Even old growth oak will have big pores. Poplar is usually the cheapest "hard" wood, and doesn't have a lot of grain figure (therefore it stains well, and grain doesn't stand out next to something else if the color matches), so it gets used a lot for stuff like this.
Don't know how long it takes to register for it but there is an auction that you can bid online tomorrow in coggon with some woodworking tools. Saw a planer, jointer, couple of lathes and sander among others. Hoge auctioneering
I thought some in this thread would appreciate this video:
Yes, price is OK. BUT, don't compare this saw to the SawStop if that was the intent.
My first “real” woodworking project in a while. Using some of the ash I had to cut down after the derecho. The area above the bench will eventually have doors, but I need to make a smaller built in that will be about 1ft wide for DVDs and Blu-rays on the other side of the fireplace and I only want to have to do router setup for doors once. Very bottom under the bench will be firewood storage. I will probably try to line it with some sheet plastic or something just it doesn’t get scratched and look like garbage after the first time it is filled with firewood.
Do you have to have the brake to be able to use a dado set? That’s a pretty safe cut to begin with- not sure I could justify the cost of the extra brake.
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It’s my understanding you need two separate brakes, one for a regular blade and one for a dado blade. I’m not sure if you can make it work without a dado brake or not though.
I should tell a short story that some of you might enjoy. The staining was done in the third stall of my garage so I will park outside until I put the poly on hopefully this weekend. Yesterday after work I pulled in the drive and opened the garage door to walk inside. I had forgot that it had rained some yesterday so as the garage door was going up, several giant drips of water fell off the garage door onto my newly stained table top. A neighbor watched as I spewed a stream of obscenities sprinting to my clean rag stash to wipe off the water from the table I just spent over 8 hours staining. No harm was done and maybe it would of been fine but all could think was “oh sh*t!” In that moment. My neighbor got a good laugh out of it.
It seems like every project I’ve done I end up dripping a bead of sweat off my face onto a coat of finish.
Every. *******. Time.
Poly question: I’m going to use a Varathane clear gloss poly for the table top. I can’t remember if foam or bristled brushes work better. I believe foam might but they are annoying and break down so quickly. Bristles I’m afraid leave marks.
also, I’ve got a half a can of some of the same poly left over from a project a couple years ago. Should I use it to begin with or not risk it (I can be a cheap ass).
also, I’ve got a half a can of some of the same poly left over from a project a couple years ago. Should I use it to begin with or not risk it (I can be a cheap ass).
I've had good luck with both types of brushes. A very light sanding between coats makes a world of difference for the end result.
As long as the older poly is not separated or weird colored it should be fine. Just test it first.
Question for the experts in the WW thread...
I'm attempting to 'refinish' the wood paneling in my basement by sanding off the existing coating to reveal the underlaying original wood (see 2nd picture for 'after/before'). There are some areas (particularly near the top of the boards) where there is some discoloration (staining?) from what appears to be where the old drop-ceiling used to sit (no ceiling since I've lived in the house) and also where some cabinets and a built-in bar were previously located.
What's my best bet to clean up these areas? I was thinking about trying some 'wood bleach' (oxalic acid), but I'm curious if that will be 'too aggressive' -- is a continued sanding effort my best approach? TIA for any shared insights.
I'm attempting to 'refinish' the wood paneling in my basement by sanding off the existing coating to reveal the underlaying original wood (see 2nd picture for 'after/before'). There are some areas (particularly near the top of the boards) where there is some discoloration (staining?) from what appears to be where the old drop-ceiling used to sit (no ceiling since I've lived in the house) and also where some cabinets and a built-in bar were previously located.
What's my best bet to clean up these areas? I was thinking about trying some 'wood bleach' (oxalic acid), but I'm curious if that will be 'too aggressive' -- is a continued sanding effort my best approach? TIA for any shared insights.