Woodworkers Thread

Been working on re doing my shop room. The one wall is not painted and finished because I am building cabinets, a butcher block desk, and a french cleat wall. As you can see one room looks pretty and the rest of the garage is now a mess.
 

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I am thinking of taking the plunge and either buying a saw stop cabinet saw or buying a CNC in the coming months.

Eventually I want both but working from home for now I can definitely take advantage of that with the CNC to build during the day. I am thinking I would like to use it to start a side hustle some day.
 
Looking for a contractor to paint cabinets, have one quote for 2800 not sure thats in line ot not? the uppers have 4 double door cabinets and a small one above the fridge, theres about 12 feet worth of lowers.
 
Looking for a contractor to paint cabinets, have one quote for 2800 not sure thats in line ot not? the uppers have 4 double door cabinets and a small one above the fridge, theres about 12 feet worth of lowers.
Picture?
 
I probably count as a barely-competent carpenter more than a woodworker, but enjoy drooling over the various projects here. My garage is jealous of your workspaces.
I’ve been replacing some baseboard moulding at the wife’s request, and am finally fed up with the $35 10” miter saw that I picked up at a garage sale 8 years ago. It’s probably great for framing, but, even with careful fine-tuning, is hardly a precision tool. Any recommendations? I’d like to spend slightly less than a small fortune. Any must-have or useless features that you’ve encountered?
I really like Hitachi, but the Japanese made ones were better. You can tell the difference because the base is a cream color on the Japanese made models, and its made of steel. Otherwise almost any major brand miter is good, but pay at least $500 for consistent precision.
 
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I didn't make these but I thought the craftsmanship was great. Warmoth custom shop, koa top and alder back for the body, 3a birds eye maple neck and fretboard.

Can't wait to put her together when I get back from this job in Orlando.
 

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I am thinking of taking the plunge and either buying a saw stop cabinet saw or buying a CNC in the coming months.

Eventually I want both but working from home for now I can definitely take advantage of that with the CNC to build during the day. I am thinking I would like to use it to start a side hustle some day.
It's a good investment, especially if you want to start making things for commercial application the money is $$$$$$$$$$$$$.
 
Looking for a contractor to paint cabinets, have one quote for 2800 not sure thats in line ot not? the uppers have 4 double door cabinets and a small one above the fridge, theres about 12 feet worth of lowers.
One of my cousins is a painter and the other is a flip contractor, both talked me out of painting ours when we moved into our house last year. We ended up buying new cabinets instead.

Painting cabinets is really hard to get a clean, good look from the research I've done and from what I've heard. I couldn't really tell you if that quote is fair or not but all this to say it really wouldn't shock me.
 
One of my cousins is a painter and the other is a flip contractor, both talked me out of painting ours when we moved into our house last year. We ended up buying new cabinets instead.

Painting cabinets is really hard to get a clean, good look from the research I've done and from what I've heard. I couldn't really tell you if that quote is fair or not but all this to say it really wouldn't shock me.

I’ve also been told that the doors/drawers take so much abuse that it will never look clean. You may consider refacing (new doors and drawer fronts, paint other exterior surfaces) to keep the cost lower than new cabinets.
 
Looking for a contractor to paint cabinets, have one quote for 2800 not sure thats in line ot not? the uppers have 4 double door cabinets and a small one above the fridge, theres about 12 feet worth of lowers.

Its really a crapshoot when you’re painting existing cabinets. Everyone thinks it can’t be that hard but it’s pretty difficult to do it right. Even if it’s done right it can very quickly turn to crap, especially if you have kids. Almost every paint job I’ve seen on existing cabinets looks like crap in a couple years because of normal wear and tear.

If you have nice boxes, I’d suggest refinishing those to whatever color you do choose and buying new faces. It’s more expensive but it will hold up a hell of a lot longer. That doesn’t seem like an overly large kitchen though so it might not be too bad. They can be bought online as well.
 
Pics are too big not smart enough to size them, they're dark brown going to white, the painter thought they were MDF requiring spraying?
I don’t know, seems expensive to me but I will defer to those much more knowledgeable than me on the thread.
 
Pat said:
I probably count as a barely-competent carpenter more than a woodworker, but enjoy drooling over the various projects here. My garage is jealous of your workspaces.
I’ve been replacing some baseboard moulding at the wife’s request, and am finally fed up with the $35 10” miter saw that I picked up at a garage sale 8 years ago. It’s probably great for framing, but, even with careful fine-tuning, is hardly a precision tool. Any recommendations? I’d like to spend slightly less than a small fortune. Any must-have or useless features that you’ve encountered?


For any precision I go to the miter box and a hand saw. Now if I had to do hundreds it might get old but picture frames, etc it is great.
 
If you want to paint cabinet doors, and you want them too look clean and new, it must be sprayed and kilned. I agree with others, buy new facing for the cabinets, or just new cabinets in total.

If the 2800 is for a sprayed and kiln baked finish it's a good price assuming there's not just a few cabs being refurbished.
 
Salvaged some maple butcher block countertops almost 20 years ago from a friends kitchen demo. He gave me the tops for helping with his project. Made a few cutting boards years ago from some scraps but now back at it. First run is 11x14 or so, decent size for general daily use. They sit up on 1" diameter nylon furniture tack glides. Just table saw, router, sanding and oiling but the first few came out pretty decent. I'm more of a framing, deck and garden carpenter, not a real woodworker.

cutting board cf scale.jpg
 
Salvaged some maple butcher block countertops almost 20 years ago from a friends kitchen demo. He gave me the tops for helping with his project. Made a few cutting boards years ago from some scraps but now back at it. First run is 11x14 or so, decent size for general daily use. They sit up on 1" diameter nylon furniture tack glides. Just table saw, router, sanding and oiling but the first few came out pretty decent. I'm more of a framing, deck and garden carpenter, not a real woodworker.

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A pretty simple way to switch it up is to make an end grain cutting board. Just cut into strips on the table saw, rotate them 90 degrees and find a pattern you like. Then just glue and clamp. They don’t dull knives as easy and they hold up way better to regular use.

You’ll end up with something like this.

birch-end-grain__04904.1545322494.png
 
I love the aged look of the case contrasted with the white. How did you achieve that?

The cabinet is constructed from aspen; I would've preferred poplar, but couldn't purchase what I needed. The dark stain really accentuates the wood grain. For the "used" look, I sanded off corners, lightly roughed up areas with course sandpaper or a wire brush. The interior is painted with a flat white latex; shelves were "aged" with sandpaper and a slight hint of dark stain applied to make them appear well-worn and used. The back is a piece of left-over bead board that I "roughed up" to appear worn. Except for cutting the window down to size, then painting and roughing up the edges, it's in essentially its original "nicely aged" condition (although I did have to re-glue some of the deteriorated glazing that was crumbling and falling out).

The cabinet is hanging in our guest bathroom; the glass window makes it the perfect showcase for vintage family bathroom items such old curling irons, razors, a shaving cream brush, perfume bottles, pill bottles, etc.

We really like the "vintage" look; I have several pieces (formerly referred to as antiques) that I have rebuilt and/or restored, and am building things that complement that style.
 
What kind of wood glue do people recommend? I hardly use it and probably should more. I am not patient enough most times to screw with it but probably should be.
 

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