I think this is very accurate. It's lovely, vaguely filthy, and SO confusing. But it's truly unique - and the cruise ships are killing it, so it really is an experience that we likely won't have for long at this rate.
What I will say is that our best experiences were in Murano and Burano. They're like basically little suburb islands off of Venice that are so colorful and unique. Murano is known for its glass, Burano for its lace - but in order to tour either of their factories, you are going to walk into a giant tourist trap. Just walking around each over the course of an afternoon/early evening is lovely.
I also timed our trip to Venice when Da Vinci's The Vetruvian Man was on display (it's usually kept vaulted due to aging), so there was a whole thing of Da Vinci's sketches, writings, and art. It was flooring how brilliant he was.