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cysdaone

Member
Mar 18, 2015
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Des Moines Area
So we bought a sectional and paid to have it delivered and set up. We measured whether it would fit in the room, but I neglected to measure the door opening to the basement where it is going. I know. I'm really feeling smart.

The delivery guys recommended removing the trim around the door which would free up a couple of inches which is all we would need to get it down the stairs.

Can anyone recommend someone who could do this in the Des Moines area? I would need someone to remove the trim and then reinstall it.

Thanks!
 
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Reactions: Scott34
Remove it yourself....DYI.
Finish carpenter can put back on which is more skill requiring. I don't have a guy in Des Moines, but I have one near Kalona.
 
post-24030-Mark-Wahlberg-confused-gif-Img-Bi1v.gif
 
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cysdaone said:
So we bought a sectional and paid to have it delivered and set up. We measured whether it would fit in the room, but I neglected to measure the door opening to the basement where it is going. I know. I'm really feeling smart.

The delivery guys recommended removing the trim around the door which would free up a couple of inches which is all we would need to get it down the stairs.

Can anyone recommend someone who could do this in the Des Moines area? I would need someone to remove the trim and then reinstall it.

Thanks!
Click to expand...


How does removing the trim get it to fit through the door? That is wider than the door jam itself. Did they pop the door off at the hinges?
 
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cysdaone said:
Yes, they took the door off the hinges. It does look like there may some room if the trim were removed. It only needs about two inches.
Click to expand...
Removing the trim will gain you nothing, I think you're talking about removing both jambs. So you'll have to remove the trim on each side of the door, then remove the jambs which is also going to require removing the header. The jambs are going to be between 5/8"-3/4" each typically, which won't give you the 2" you need. You could hope that the jambs were shimmed out from the frame enough to give you the clearance, basically another 1/2". You can leave the door stop pieces on the jambs and header.
 
cysdaone said:
Yes, they took the door off the hinges. It does look like there may some room if the trim were removed. It only needs about two inches.
Click to expand...
Do you mean the door seat or the door frame? I think there is a misunderstanding about the door trim. Most likely the door was installed as a completely framed door. The trim is then put on to cover up the area between the door and the edge of where the Sheetrock goes. So it’s recessed from the frame.
 
cysdaone said:
Yes, they took the door off the hinges. It does look like there may some room if the trim were removed. It only needs about two inches.
Click to expand...

That’s not really how it works. To gain width, the door frame would have to be removed and rehung. Still not that difficult but more than just “removing trim”.
 
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Reactions: BCClone
I think they are telling you to remove the jam. Unless they mean the stops in the jam which would give you an inch. It’s really easy to remove. Grab a knife and a pry bar. Putting it back up is a little harder but a YouTube video could probably teach you.
 
To assist in answering your question, I do not know a handyman but you probably need to tell who you do find that you need to remove the door and then reinstall it.

I would go to the lumberyard or menards and ask them for a local reference.
 
Acylum said:
Removing the trim will gain you nothing, I think you're talking about removing both jambs. So you'll have to remove the trim on each side of the door, then remove the jambs which is also going to require removing the header. The jambs are going to be between 5/8"-3/4" each typically, which won't give you the 2" you need. You could hope that the jambs were shimmed out from the frame enough to give you the clearance, basically another 1/2". You can leave the door stop pieces on the jambs and header.
Click to expand...

All of this is the correct answer, though I would add that he’ll easily get his two inches if the door stop thickness is included in the jamb thickness + any shimmed space.
 
^^^^ yup guys above pretty much nailed it. If you have every removed trim and can work a pry bar you’ll be good. When you get to the jamb removal you can probably keep it in one piece. Start at the bottom and work each side toward the middle. When you have enough space at the bottom you can work the top.
 
Acylum said:
Removing the trim will gain you nothing, I think you're talking about removing both jambs. So you'll have to remove the trim on each side of the door, then remove the jambs which is also going to require removing the header. The jambs are going to be between 5/8"-3/4" each typically, which won't give you the 2" you need. You could hope that the jambs were shimmed out from the frame enough to give you the clearance, basically another 1/2". You can leave the door stop pieces on the jambs and header.
Click to expand...

Sorry, but not totally correct:
1. Taking the door off the hinges (pulling pins) will gain a little, like 1/2-1" depending on the door swing.
2. Removing the door stops will gain another approximately 1".
3. If still not enough, then you're down to removing the door casing on both sides (and top which is attached to the sides), then removing the jambs. This will gain you about 1 1/2" plus any shimmed space. You DO NOT need to remove the header.
 
CycloneBob said:
Sorry, but not totally correct:
1. Taking the door off the hinges (pulling pins) will gain a little, like 1/2-1" depending on the door swing.
2. Removing the door stops will gain another approximately 1".
3. If still not enough, then you're down to removing the door casing on both sides (and top which is attached to the sides), then removing the jambs. This will gain you about 1 1/2" plus any shimmed space. You DO NOT need to remove the header.
Click to expand...

Pretty sure he was referring to the top jamb that’s always attached to the side jambs on a pre-hung door. I don’t think he meant to actually pull the header out of the wall.
 
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Reactions: BCClone
BCClone said:
To assist in answering your question, I do not know a handyman but you probably need to tell who you do find that you need to remove the door and then reinstall it.

I would go to the lumberyard or menards and ask them for a local reference.
Click to expand...

How does this help with removing a door.... oh never mind
 
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CycloneBob said:
Sorry, but not totally correct:
1. Taking the door off the hinges (pulling pins) will gain a little, like 1/2-1" depending on the door swing.
2. Removing the door stops will gain another approximately 1".
3. If still not enough, then you're down to removing the door casing on both sides (and top which is attached to the sides), then removing the jambs. This will gain you about 1 1/2" plus any shimmed space. You DO NOT need to remove the header.
Click to expand...
He said he still needed 2" AFTER the door was removed. Also. I'm assuming it's a pre-hung door. Which if is the case, you might as well take the whole thing out as one unit if your goal is to salvage everything. One the casing is removed, it only takes a couple of minutes to run a Sawzall with a metal cutting blade down the outside of the jambs and above the header and the whole thing can be taken out as one piece, with no risk of ruining anything.
 
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