Mower height

[DaddyMac]

Is it too late this year to power rake to remove thatch? I would assume that it's getting too hot to do this, as it would distress the lawn too much after. Should I do it in the fall, or wait until next spring?

Probably wait. You're just opening the door to weeds right now.

I'd prefer to do mine in fall and overseed right with it. Supposedly best time to seed. But like I said, I can't win with leaves in my yard, so I find it best to rake in the spring.

Not to mention, most people probably want to put crabgrass preventer down in the spring.

 

[DaddyMac]

Anyone having any brownout problems? I am paying a lot of money to do the 5 step programs and yet half my yard is turning brown when the whole neighborhood seems fine!

Large area or small patches?

Grub will be doing their damage pretty quickly here. Little ********

 

[tazclone]

On my Toro I have it right on the middle setting which is 2 3/4 but it seems like all my neighbors mow a lot shorter which looks a lot better. I've always been told that it's better to cut high and cut often. What's the best setting?

1. Shorter grass will tillerrhizome more meaning you will have denser grass as the plant puts out more leaf shoots.
2. Longer grass equals longer roots but generally speaking less leaf shoots/tillering

because of this a lot of people mow shorter in the spring and when heat stress approaches, raise the height. My problem with this is...at the time you raise the height, the plant is no longer producing root mass. So now you are asking a smaller rootmass to support a larger plant mass. That larger plant mass has higher water usage and ET (evapotranspiration0 rates). Just my opinion.

Personally, I like to keep things in the 2-2.5" range. closer to 3" and it gets leggy. The more you mow the better off you are particularly in the spring and fall. This will promote growth/tillering from the plant. Once it gets hot the opposiste is true as mowing is a stress. The 1/3 rule is a given as well. Try to never take more than 1/3 of the leaf tissue in any one mowing.

One variable is irrigation...do you have it or do you use a sprinkler? Another is shade and how much do you have? Do you get morning sun or afternoon sun?

 

[capitalcityguy]

Sorry, I wasn't on the site for a few days, but I will answer your question. There is a difference between buying necessary product to achieve a result and over buying. You can somewhat over fertilize without damaging your lawn. The extra treatment for the most part ends up in your storm sewer.

Take laundry detergent for example. The recommended amount for your average washer is about 2-3 times what it actually takes to get your clothes clean for most detergents under most conditions. Is the outcome bad results? No, but you are overbuying by 100-200%. They line their pockets and you get good results. You can get the same good results by not blindly taking their advice.

That is what I mean.

I have a neighbor who over fertilizes by my estimation. His lawn looks great! I have another neighbor (directly across the street from the first) who by the book under fertilizes. His lawn is for all practical purposes indistinguishable from the first. If he blindly took the manufacturer's advice, like his neighbor, he would be paying more for no better result.

Your interest is to hang on to your money as much as possible and have a great looking lawn; Scott's interest is to have you buy as much of their product as possible and you have a great looking lawn.

Thi$ is where Scott's interest and your interest can differ.

Thanks for clarifying.

I don't have the expertise to confirm or deny what you're saying so I'll take you at your word until (or unless) someone can offer something authoritative to the contrary worthy of consideration.

 

[balken]

I set mine at 8 inches. Wait, that is the 'Swedish Extender' machine I purchased by mail order. My mower is at 3 1/2".

 

[CyPride]

Anyone having any brownout problems? I am paying a lot of money to do the 5 step programs and yet half my yard is turning brown when the whole neighborhood seems fine!

5-step program is a waste of money.

grass plant can't use the nutrients during the hot summer weather.

best bet is to feed heavy in the Fall - two feedings: one around labor day, another around Nov. 1st. Only one in the spring. it is just basic grass-plant biology. and if anyone tells you different, check their agenda.

 

[Cyclonesrule91]

5-step program is a waste of money.

grass plant can't use the nutrients during the hot summer weather.

best bet is to feed heavy in the Fall - two feedings: one around labor day, another around Nov. 1st. Only one in the spring. it is just basic grass-plant biology. and if anyone tells you different, check their agenda.

Exactly correct!:yes:

 

[capitalcityguy]

5-step program is a waste of money.

grass plant can't use the nutrients during the hot summer weather.

best bet is to feed heavy in the Fall - two feedings: one around labor day, another around Nov. 1st. Only one in the spring. it is just basic grass-plant biology. and if anyone tells you different, check their agenda.

I don't believe the "5-step" program provides fertilizer at each stage, does it? Again, I don't do my lawn any longer, but when I used the Earl May equivalent a few years back it was:

1) crap grass inhibitor
2) spring fertilizer
3) grub control
4) fall fertilizer.

Hummm…maybe it was only four steps, but my point is I don't believe each step has a fertilizer component to it.

 

[DaddyMac]

I don't believe the "5-step" program provides fertilizer at each stage, does it? Again, I don't do my lawn any longer, but when I used the Earl May equivalent a few years back it was:

1) crap grass inhibitor
2) spring fertilizer
3) grub control
4) fall fertilizer.

Hummm…maybe it was only four steps, but my point is I don't believe each step has a fertilizer component to it.

I don't think Scott's 5 step includes grub control. I think their summerguard is insect, but not grub. They have a seperate product for that. Could be wrong - but I had grubs last couple years and needed to get their grub control.

 

[capitalcityguy]

I don't think Scott's 5 step includes grub control. I think their summerguard is insect, but not grub. They have a seperate product for that. Could be wrong - but I had grubs last couple years and needed to get their grub control.

Ouch…that's a tough draw in life when your lawn requires the 6-step program! Where's the justice?!?! :smile:

 

[DaddyMac]

Ouch…that's a tough draw in life when your lawn requires the 6-step program! Where's the justice?!?! :smile:

Would suck, wouldn't it? :yes:

I forgo the summer guard, and usually the crabgrass (very shady, not much trouble there). When I power-rake in the spring, I'll overseed and starter fertilizer. Sometimes I'll do their weed control +2 - but most years I can get away with spot spraying for weeds. Then usually just the fall treatment. Last year or two I've had to do some grub treatment

But most of the time it's only spring starter and winterizer. And a bottle of ortho weedkiller.

 

[SDClone]

3 to 3 1/2 inches is the right hight to keep during the summer months.

 

[dmclone]

A little update. I stuck with a high mower height and my neighbor continued to cut it low. His yard is now pretty much dead.

 

[CycloneYoda]

I went up to 3.5 from 3.25. Lawn looks great.

 

[CYphyllis]

A little update. I stuck with a high mower height and my neighbor continued to cut it low. His yard is now pretty much dead.

Thank you for this update, the suspense of this situation has kept me up many nights.

 

[dmclone]

Thank you for this update, the suspense of this situation has kept me up many nights.

Happy you should be able to sleep better now and I assume it must have been a pretty big deal since you took the time to post your feelings.

 

[CYphyllis]

Happy you should be able to sleep better now and I assume it must have been a pretty big deal since you took the time to post your feelings.

According to my team of therapists, sharing your feelings is healthy.