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WRT propane burners and 'no issues with boil overs'...not sure what you mean there. Propane burners will boil over faster and easier than a stove because they put out more heat. Perhaps easier cleanup/ruin stove as you mentioned? The one down side to propane is that you're going to be doing it at best in the garage. In winter, that's not the most convenient, although with all the heat, it stays decently warm.

I have a wort chiller, an immersion style (the coil goes in the pot, water runs thru it). Nice, definitely. Needed? Not really.

There are 2 theories on starting equipment...like you mentioned about not buying 2 pots...that's one. The other is a self created one...check craigslist regularly. First, you might pick up a deal on some equipment. Second, realize how many of times you see whole homebrew setup sales. These people were really going to get into home brewing as well. If you don't end up sticking with it, the more money you're out.

Sorry for not being clear on the burner. I meant what you mentioned in that when (notice I didnt say if) I make a mess its in the garage.

Really what I would prefer to do is to take my brewery into the garage for the boil, wort chill and transfer to ferm and then move to the unfinished part of the basement for ferm in the primary. Im hoping that this will reduce the amount of cleanup or at least the extent in which I am required to clean to maintaing the marriage.

Suprisingly I looked on CL and not much equipment out there. Thanks for the input, might hold off on the wort chiller unless I find a deal.
 
It looks like I got to this thread a bit late. I've been homebrewing for about a year and a half now. All my stuff has turned out well. This winter I've brewed a cinnamon hard cider, a spiced winter ale, and a brown. I'm plan on brewing a hoppy red ale and a wheat some time in the next month or two. I'm trying to clear my shelves and make some empty bottles between now and then.

I do partial mashes. I've found it's a lot easier to hit my target gravity with partials, and it doesn't take as long, and I don't have the equipment or storage room to go to full grain.

I have a LHBS about 3 miles from my house here in Raleigh, NC (American Brewmaster). Unfortunately their prices are ridiculously high and their malt extract is terrible. I only by yeast from them and order all of my other supplies from Northern Brewer ($8 shipping is less than the difference in price for 2 batches worth of supplies).
 
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I've been eying that one for a while. I assume it's worth to get the glass?

I suppose it might be worth it, but the glass turned me off because of the chance of breakage. Those things can get slippery if you're lugging around 5 gallons of beer, and I've seen pics and heard horror stories about dropping one of those and large shards of glass causing damage. The plastic ones are very durable.
 
I suppose it might be worth it, but the glass turned me off because of the chance of breakage. Those things can get slippery if you're lugging around 5 gallons of beer, and I've seen pics and heard horror stories about dropping one of those and large shards of glass causing damage. The plastic ones are very durable.

Yeah. But I'm also heard guys say the glass ones are easier to clean and get cleaner. I have some gladware containers that still smell like enchiladas months later. :twitcy:
 
I've been eying that one for a while. I assume it's worth to get the glass?

I prefer plastic carboys (better bottles some call them) as well. If you're rough with cleaning, you can scratch plastic, which makes it hard to sanitize, but other than that, I much prefer plastic. I have both, and won't buy another glass. *Edit* cleaning/smells....yes, for the plastic buckets. The 'better bottles' don't pick up odors. And, a oxygenating cleaner (like oxyclean) usually gets odors out pretty good.

Although...insider tip...if you want a 5 gallon one, and can find a place that sells the water cooler water jugs, the 'deposit' is usually cheaper than buying a carboy. Frowned upon by some establishments...
 
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I prefer plastic carboys (better bottles some call them) as well. If you're rough with cleaning, you can scratch plastic, which makes it hard to sanitize, but other than that, I much prefer plastic. I have both, and won't buy another glass. *Edit* cleaning/smells....yes, for the plastic buckets. The 'better bottles' don't pick up odors. And, a oxygenating cleaner (like oxyclean) usually gets odors out pretty good.

Although...insider tip...if you want a 5 gallon one, and can find a place that sells the water cooler water jugs, the 'deposit' is usually cheaper than buying a carboy. Frowned upon by some establishments...

I've heard the brushes can scratch the better bottles over time also, but an overnight soak with PBW or Oxyclean free does wonders. Dump it out in the morning and a quick rinse and they're clean as can be.
 
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I've heard the brushes can scratch the better bottles over time also, but an overnight soak with PBW or Oxyclean free does wonders. Dump it out in the morning and a quick rinse and they're clean as can be.

Yes sir. I use the **** out of the target brand of Oxyclean free. Wine fermenters these days.

Speaking of which...oxyclean tip...overnight soak in a strong solution of oxyclean removes almost any label, if you're saving money by keeping bottles (pry off beer can be re-used, I get my wine bottles that way too).

Brew pots: I got mine from a restaurant supply store. Look around, that doesn't have to be beer specific, unless you're thinking of doing 10 gallon all grain batches where you have to have the spigot and false bottom since you can't move that much wort and grain.

Turkey fryer: I started with this, although I got a different pot. Used it for a year or so. One thing I didn't realize until later, if it's a fryer with a small ring in the middle,

Like this:

7326_1.jpg


you can have problems with scorching and darkening of the wort with the heat that concentrated if you get in a hurry. My experience: I was doing a lager batch, had 2 kits. Realized the extract was about half of some of the ales I had done in the past, so I figured...hey, boil both at once, split into 2 fermenters, away we go. The beer ended up darker than it should have by a lot, and had an off flavor. Didn't realize what it was until I listened to a brewing network podcast about the boil. It was like a lightbulb. Ordered a Blichmann floor burner pretty quickly:

77004-websmall_1.jpg


You can get by with a turkey fryer if you have one already, just take it easy and don't crank it all the way up to get the boil going. If you're going to buy one anyway, and won't use it for anything else, I'd recommend something with the large flame area. There are cheaper ones than the blichmann, but I had my wife convinced that I needed a new burner, so I swung for the fence. The only down side for that one if you're starting out...my 5 gallon pot is almost too small for the burner.
 
Sorry for not being clear on the burner. I meant what you mentioned in that when (notice I didnt say if) I make a mess its in the garage.

Really what I would prefer to do is to take my brewery into the garage for the boil, wort chill and transfer to ferm and then move to the unfinished part of the basement for ferm in the primary. Im hoping that this will reduce the amount of cleanup or at least the extent in which I am required to clean to maintaing the marriage.

Suprisingly I looked on CL and not much equipment out there. Thanks for the input, might hold off on the wort chiller unless I find a deal.

Just popped the yeast packet, brewing my version of Beamish stout.
Bought two forty gallon steam kettles from a school last fall. Setting up a nano brewery. Plan is to produce 250 gallons per week. Looking at plastic fermenters and storage tanks. Not necessarily what I want but it's in my budget. Plan is to sell draft beer, no cans or bottles.
 
would a turkey fryer work?

I use a Bayou Classic turkey fryer I bought at Lowes. Works just fine for me, though that Blichmann floor burner that 00clone posted makes me want to upgrade.

(Side note to 00 - did you get the leg extensions for that burner?)

What does everyone recommend/use for a brew pot?

I think I've over-read because there seem to be 100 different opinions!

I have a 30-quart pot I got from my LHBS and it works fine for me. IMO, what you get depends on whether you want do to a full or partial boil. All-grain brewing requires full boils, and you lose about a gallon to evaporation during the hour boil plus some to hops and sediment, so I'm boiling ~6.5 gallons at a time. My brew pot is short and wide, so the pot doesn't have much head space and boil-over is a big concern for me, which means I have to babysit my pot (though with a homebrew in one hand and a cigar in the other, it's actually not that bad, although I do admit I wish the pot was a wee bit bigger).

Figure out how much you want to boil, and then add three gallons.

One other thing to consider when buying your brew pot is where/how you're going to cool it. If you're doing an ice bath, check the diameter of the pot and make sure it will comfortably fit in your sink. I discovered with horror on my first batch that I had to force the brew pot down in my sink to make it fit, and then changing the bath water became a hassle. That, combined with the fact that there's no such thing as "cold" water out of the faucet during Texas summers, made a wort chiller and pre-chiller essential pieces of equipment.

Got a red ale kit from Austin Homebrew this week. Going to brew it tonight or tomorrow (whenever it stops raining) so I can tap it on St. Patrick's Day
 
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If you buy a turkey fryer set, one thing I haven't seen emphasized on this thread is that your brew pot ABSOLUTELY HAS to be Stainless Steel. If you brew in anything other than stainless the pot will leech off flavors into your beer

this is probably the biggest fallacy in home beer brewing. While stainless steel is preferred, you can use an aluminum pot and not have any off flavors. Just boil some water in a new aluminum pot for about an hour before you use it for beer brewing. This will build a protective layer on the pot and you will be good to go.
 
this is probably the biggest fallacy in home beer brewing. While stainless steel is preferred, you can use an aluminum pot and not have any off flavors. Just boil some water in a new aluminum pot for about an hour before you use it for beer brewing. This will build a protective layer on the pot and you will be good to go.

I stand corrected. File that one under "Lies my LHBS told me"
 
Well I finally took the plunge and invested in a starter kit from Beer Crazy. It came with most of what I needed to get started

Cost was just under $90 and the kit included:

6 Gal fermentation bucket w/ lid and pre-drilled hole for airlock
3 piece airlock
5 gallon bottling bucket with spigot
Auto siphon and tubing
Bottle Cap Crimper
Homebrewer beginner manual

Additional purchases I made:

American Style Wheat Extract kit (Extract, hops, yeast, priming sugars and bottle caps)
Propane burner for outside boiling
Stainless Steel 20 qt pot

Total bill was about $240 so not dirt cheap but the additional items were well worth it for my goals of getting the mess out of the kitchen.

I didn’t buy the immersion chiller that I was thinking about just to see how the ice bath worked. I learned that it takes every bit of ice in the icemaker to chill 3 gal boil in 20-30min. I will probably try to sanitize some plastic jugs and fill with water and freeze to make larger ice chunks. Cut the jugs open and just put the sanitized ice in the wort for the next boil. Anyone do this with success?

I brewed right away Sat pm when I got home and pitched the yeast about 8:30 on Sat pm. By 9 am when I went to check the airlock was slowly bubbling (about every 6-7 seconds) and by yesterday afternoon it was going about every 2-3 seconds.

I’m a bit nervous because I had a bit of scorched extract on the bottom of the pan after the boil and I spilt a little of the yeast when I opened the package but all in all I'm feeling pretty good about the whole situation being that it was my first attempt.
 

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