Car Buying Process

Thanks for all the responses guys.

I probably should have been more specific in my OP but its been a long day.

Graduated last May. I have student loan debt but no credit card debt. I keep track of every expense down to the penny each month and have been able to save 25% of my monthly income and could keep it at 25% with a few tweaks pretty comfortably if I stay under a payment of $350/month.

I bank with Wells Fargo but Dad said I need to shop around at various credit unions in the area. I see that as a suggestion already in the responses.

Was looking to go through Bob Brown. I don't know if the above information changes any of the advice given but thought I'd go ahead and provide it.
 
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I would probably do the same thing as you if I got a 0% or 0.9% APR, or similar. I have no idea what the OP's credit is like, but if he's a first-time buyer he may not be able to get the rock-bottom rates.

My credit is good for my age as far as i can tell. Im sure someone will slam me for this but my dad has offered to co sign and he has excellent credit.
 
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My credit is good for my age as far as i can tell. Im sure someone will slam me for this but my dad has offered to co sign and he has excellent credit.

In that case you shouldn't have too much of an issue securing a good rate.

In regards to the down payment argument: run the numbers and see what makes sense for you. It may not amount to much, but my opinion is that if you can save a decent amount of interest over the life of the loan, why not?

Good luck!
 
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My credit is good for my age as far as i can tell. Im sure someone will slam me for this but my dad has offered to co sign and he has excellent credit.

Don’t ever worry about having a co-signer. It it saves you money, there is nothing wrong with that. Your dad is the only one that would need to worry. It can be annoying if he has to apply for a loan elsewhere and they need all the info for the car loan, but that’s about it.
 
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I would probably do the same thing as you if I got a 0% or 0.9% APR, or similar. I have no idea what the OP's credit is like, but if he's a first-time buyer he may not be able to get the rock-bottom rates.

Right, which is why I wouldn’t recommend you just automatically pay as much as you can down. Whether I put $5k or $10k or zero down, that car is the same price when I drive away with it. Having $5k in my pocket for something that I may need it for is nice. Rather that than have it in the dealers pocket - if you can get a low interest rate, that is.

I’ve leased a few cars and they always want you to pay a few thousand down. All it does is lower your monthly payment and puts it in the dealers pocket earlier.
 
Assuming you are buying from a dealership:

#1 Don't get emotional over any part of the process. If the numbers don't work, you'll find something else. If you remain calm knowing that you are in charge and you don't have to buy, everything will turn out ok. You should be in no hurry

#2 Run a loan calculator to see how much you want to spend. If you have a trade, go to KBB to get an idea of what it's worth(be honest on condition) and do the math. As an example, if your trade in is paid off and worth $5k, you don't want your payment to be over $350/month for 3 years then you have $12k plus your trade, so you should be looking at cars for around $17k. TTL will probably be around $1k so put your limit around $16k.

#3 Go to cars.com, autotrader.com, and carmax.com. Put in criteria i.e. sedans, less than 40k miles, maximum price of $16k, a few makes (Honda, Dodge, etc). See what comes up and pick out a few models that interest you.

#4 Get pre approved for a car loan. You don't have to get the car loan at the place you get pre-approved but it's good to have to give you an idea.

#5 Go test drive some of these cars. If asked (you'll be asked) , be honest and say "I've just started looking and this is one of the 3 models I'm considering. I'm not buying any until I drive all 3". No matter what they say after this it doesn't matter because you are in charge and are going to walk out the door when you finish. Grab your salesman's info and keep it. Tell him you'll hear from him in the next few days after you get a chance to look at the other 2. They may tell you that "This may not be here tomorrow", "This deal is only for today", "Let me talk to my boss", etc. None of this matters, walk out the door.

#6 Go home and figure out which model you like the best. Do research on forums for that model, which will give you a good idea on known issues with certain models/years. If you find one that you really like run a carfax on it. Again look online and see if there are similar models locally that you like.

#7 Once you've picked out a car, email the sales person and tell them you want to know what the best deal they can give you. Tell them you need to know the bottom dollar (not monthly payment) and whatever number they give you you'll consider it their best offer so that you can compare it to another that you're considering. Do your best to not go back in unless you're ready to pull the trigger.

#8 See how the numbers compare and then when you think you have a decent deal email them and say "If you come down to $****, I'll buy today". They will probably meet you somewhere in the middle and that's ok. Don't lose sleep over a few hundred. I've heard of people spending 6+ hours fighting with sales guys over a few hundred, it's just stupid.

#9 Get the final number including TTL in writing. When it comes to financing, they may want to offer you a loan and that's ok. Just compare it to what you got pre-approved. Don't fall for any extras, if you buy a good reliable car, you don't need a warranty.

On a side note, if you buy from carmax, you can skip a lot of these steps but you may end up paying a little more. It may be worth it to not go through what some people consider a hassle.

I think people go into the car buying process with the wrong attitude and they usually crack from the stress. Look at it as a fun experience where you are the one in total control. Have fun with the process, you're the one getting a new-to-you car.

On a side note, it would be good to give us your budget and maybe we can help you pick one out :)
 
Right, which is why I wouldn’t recommend you just automatically pay as much as you can down. Whether I put $5k or $10k or zero down, that car is the same price when I drive away with it. Having $5k in my pocket for something that I may need it for is nice. Rather that than have it in the dealers pocket - if you can get a low interest rate, that is.

I’ve leased a few cars and they always want you to pay a few thousand down. All it does is lower your monthly payment and puts it in the dealers pocket earlier.

I can agree with this. Which is why getting pre-approved and getting an idea of what your rate will be is so important.
 
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On a side note, I've had some bad salespeople at dealerships but that doesn't stop me from going back to them at a later time. I really like dealing with Hummels but if they don't have what I want, it doesn't matter. On the other hand, I've had a bunch of bad experiences at Lithia since they took over but if they have what I want, I'll give them another try. Just because you buy a car somewhere doesn't mean you have it serviced there.

Besides carmax, I do tend to stay away from car dealers that only sell used cars. That's just my personal preference.
 
Assuming you are buying from a dealership:

#1 Don't get emotional over any part of the process. If the numbers don't work, you'll find something else. If you remain calm knowing that you are in charge and you don't have to buy, everything will turn out ok. You should be in no hurry

#2 Run a loan calculator to see how much you want to spend. If you have a trade, go to KBB to get an idea of what it's worth(be honest on condition) and do the math. As an example, if your trade in is paid off and worth $5k, you don't want your payment to be over $350/month for 3 years then you have $12k plus your trade, so you should be looking at cars for around $17k. TTL will probably be around $1k so put your limit around $16k.

#3 Go to cars.com, autotrader.com, and carmax.com. Put in criteria i.e. sedans, less than 40k miles, maximum price of $16k, a few makes (Honda, Dodge, etc). See what comes up and pick out a few models that interest you.

#4 Get pre approved for a car loan. You don't have to get the car loan at the place you get pre-approved but it's good to have to give you an idea.

#5 Go test drive some of these cars. If asked (you'll be asked) , be honest and say "I've just started looking and this is one of the 3 models I'm considering. I'm not buying any until I drive all 3". No matter what they say after this it doesn't matter because you are in charge and are going to walk out the door when you finish. Grab your salesman's info and keep it. Tell him you'll hear from him in the next few days after you get a chance to look at the other 2. They may tell you that "This may not be here tomorrow", "This deal is only for today", "Let me talk to my boss", etc. None of this matters, walk out the door.

#6 Go home and figure out which model you like the best. Do research on forums for that model, which will give you a good idea on known issues with certain models/years. If you find one that you really like run a carfax on it. Again look online and see if there are similar models locally that you like.

#7 Once you've picked out a car, email the sales person and tell them you want to know what the best deal they can give you. Tell them you need to know the bottom dollar (not monthly payment) and whatever number they give you you'll consider it their best offer so that you can compare it to another that you're considering. Do your best to not go back in unless you're ready to pull the trigger.

#8 See how the numbers compare and then when you think you have a decent deal email them and say "If you come down to $****, I'll buy today". They will probably meet you somewhere in the middle and that's ok. Don't lose sleep over a few hundred. I've heard of people spending 6+ hours fighting with sales guys over a few hundred, it's just stupid.

#9 Get the final number including TTL in writing. When it comes to financing, they may want to offer you a loan and that's ok. Just compare it to what you got pre-approved. Don't fall for any extras, if you buy a good reliable car, you don't need a warranty.

On a side note, if you buy from carmax, you can skip a lot of these steps but you may end up paying a little more. It may be worth it to not go through what some people consider a hassle.

I think people go into the car buying process with the wrong attitude and they usually crack from the stress. Look at it as a fun experience where you are the one in total control. Have fun with the process, you're the one getting a new-to-you car.

On a side note, it would be good to give us your budget and maybe we can help you pick one out :)

All great advice. Thank you very much. I live in West Des Moines. Would you or anyone else know where to start in searching for a reputable credit union in the area to get pre-approved?
 
Also, I almost always buy used but depending on your needs, I wouldn't totally rule out a new car. There are some cars that have such a good resale, that it may make more sense to buy new. One example that immediately comes to mind is a Honda Fit. You can buy a new 2018 loaded for around $18k or a two year old one for $15k and at that point I'd rather see you go with a 4 year loan and get a brand new vehicle, with warranty, known history, safety features, etc. This is a rare circumstance and usually only happens on really good compact vehicles.
 
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I went to 1 dealership and the guy gave me a quote and when I asked what the APR was he told me he forgot to ask. “Oh crap, I should have gotten that”.

He then quoted me at 3.5%. I went home, looked up what the VW rates were and if they had deals. Sure enough, 1.9% nationwide. I texted him and he told me, and I quote, “oh well at closing we would be forced to give you the lowest rate possible by law”. I about lost it laughing at him. He then asked me if I knew what my credit was - they had ran it about 3 hours before in order to give me a quote. He wasn’t as the dealership the next week.

Also, at that same dealership I heard “we are really taking a bath with this one” no less than 3 times. Uhhhhh why are you selling me the car at a loss? Hmmmm
 
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I wouldn't be afraid to get a high mile vehicle if it has a good reputation with good records. I told my hometown mechanic last spring we were looking for a kid car and he found us a 10 year old Toyota Avalon with 160,000 miles on it that looked nearly new. Didn't pay much for it and has been a trouble free car that drives great. I have a friend with the same car that has 400,000 miles on it which has had almost nothing done to it.
 
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My credit is good for my age as far as i can tell. Im sure someone will slam me for this but my dad has offered to co sign and he has excellent credit.

Greater Iowa Credit Union has really good rates right now.

If your FICO is above 740 or so then you would probably be in the top tier rate and no need for a co-signer.
 
I wouldn't be afraid to get a high mile vehicle if it has a good reputation with good records. I told my hometown mechanic last spring we were looking for a kid car and he found us a 10 year old Toyota Avalon with 160,000 miles on it that looked nearly new. Didn't pay much for it and has been a trouble free car that drives great. I have a friend with the same car that has 400,000 miles on it which has had almost nothing done to it.

Yeah, an Avalon will run about forever.
Had to fix my heater last week after some rodent took refuge around my blower fan.
Powerful heater. Little thing never had a chance, but neither did the fan.
 
All great advice. Thank you very much. I live in West Des Moines. Would you or anyone else know where to start in searching for a reputable credit union in the area to get pre-approved?

We use Community Choice & haven't had any complaints.

When I got my truck a few years back the dealer got me a better rate thru Chase than I got quoted from my then bank.
 
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38 replies and not a single one :eek: addressing the single most critical feature of your next car? I am here (again) to preach the gospel of COLOR! Nothing is more important than picking a car with a cool color. If the color itself doesn't wow you than the cool name of the color should, like Ocean Blue Pearl Effect, British Racing Green, Metallic Meridian, etc.
 

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