I’ll add, and purchase something there. ;-)In CR there a great spa store that does detailed water testing. Find one in Ankeny that has a spin water tester … take your tap water you would use to fill the pool, and your no FC pool water.
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I’ll add, and purchase something there. ;-)In CR there a great spa store that does detailed water testing. Find one in Ankeny that has a spin water tester … take your tap water you would use to fill the pool, and your no FC pool water.
In CR there a great spa store that does detailed water testing. Find one in Ankeny that has a spin water tester … take your tap water you would use to fill the pool, and your no FC pool water.
Something is happening to eat that chlorine. Just need to remove variables. What does tap water look like (city of Ankeny may have that info?). And the no FC detailed test. Sucks I know. Once you know what you are dealing with, its mostly easy. We had VERY heavy mineral water in Coralville, needed acid every time we filled it. Rural CR/IC we had heavy iron. Now, the water we use is perfect… and I mean perfect. So we don’t add much chlorine…. Just silver sticks up against the filter, and we shock after each use… chlorine is there for good.There is one in grimes that will test for free, the issue is getting there before they close at 5 on weekdays. I already bought vinyl patches, a skimmer net and some test strips. I just didn’t want to be the ******* that can’t balance a small above ground pool.
My two cents: you’re over thinking it. I could be wrong and a bad dad but I have a pretty big above ground and just somewhat randomly pour liquid shock in there at about a half bottle a time and have a floating thing that holds the smaller chlorine tabs. I’ve never felt like I could read/trust what those little test strips read so I stopped using them after the first year of the pool. Those stores that test water for free, in my experience, will then sell you $150 bucks worth of stuff to “fix” the problem. I’ve only had problems one time and it got all murky on me but that was because I didn’t scrub it and then rinse it good enough at the end of the prior season before storing it. I do have a more expensive sand pump but I wouldn’t think that would affect the Chem levels that much at all. That’s how I do it and my kids have gotten sick yet from the water lol.There is one in grimes that will test for free, the issue is getting there before they close at 5 on weekdays. I already bought vinyl patches, a skimmer net and some test strips. I just didn’t want to be the ******* that can’t balance a small above ground pool.
My two cents: you’re over thinking it. I could be wrong and a bad dad but I have a pretty big above ground and just somewhat randomly pour liquid shock in there at about a half bottle a time and have a floating thing that holds the smaller chlorine tabs. I’ve never felt like I could read/trust what those little test strips read so I stopped using them after the first year of the pool. Those stores that test water for free, in my experience, will then sell you $150 bucks worth of stuff to “fix” the problem. I’ve only had problems one time and it got all murky on me but that was because I didn’t scrub it and then rinse it good enough at the end of the prior season before storing it. I do have a more expensive sand pump but I wouldn’t think that would affect the Chem levels that much at all. That’s how I do it and my kids have gotten sick yet from the water lol.

Quit peeing in the pool.Maybe you’re right but it’s frustrating the **** out of me.
I posted what the levels looked like last night after adding. This is from this morning. I went from around 5 ppm to 1-2 ppm and by tonight, it will be gone. Keep in mind I just went through this cycle about 3 days ago too. I’m nervous about the floating chlorine thing because our kids **** with everything.
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I'm not sure. Go ahead and try it. Expect a brown heading on the test strip.Is shitting still ok?