This was in KC, that wouldn't based on what they told me. Basically has to be PVC or some other solid material.These snappytrap things are great. I used them everywhere in our house. Not sure if they’ll pass inspection but they should because the flex line is actually smooth on the inside.
SnappyTrap Universal Drain Kit for Bathroom Sinks DK-105 - The Home Depot
Clear your waste and sewerage by choosing this SnappyTrap Universal Drain Kit for Bathroom Sinks. Easy and quick for installing.www.homedepot.com
Water under the washing machine
- Thread starter RoseClone
- Start date
You got me curious because I’ve got around 5 of them on various sinks so I looked at their website. It looks like they’re fine. I think they consider the flex hose a “flexible pvc”.
It almost has to be related to the hot or cold water or the drain. As others have said, during a cycle check for moisture at every connection point you can. The hot and cold water source in the wall, where each connects to the water line, on the water lines, where each water line connects to the washer (if you can), where the drain hose connects to the washer (if you can), the drain hose, and area where the drain hose connects to the plumbing in your house. The best two methods are touching those areas with your hand or leaving paper towel/toilet paper touching those areas. In a properly functioning system they should all stay dry during operation so any moisture you find is an issue. The water source issues will leak regardless of how full the washer is. If its related to the hot water line it will only happen on a hot or warm cycle. If its related to the drain line the load size, length of cycle, or how many cycles you've done in a row could have an impact.
The gurgling would suggest the drain could be the culprit. Don't totally discount that it could be the new machine as well, unlikely but not impossible. Move it away from the wall a little use a paper towel to see if there is any water on any hoses or the drain, back of the washer, wall, etc. as its running. Be sure to check as it is draining or just after.
My guess. Call your landlord and have them call Roto Rooter to run a snake to clear that pipe before it causes more damage than you’ve already caused to the floor.
This. I found mine on the weekend. Roter Rooter came out and did it quick. Fixed my problem.
Possibly grab two 2x4 boards (or something else you can block it up with) and slide one under each side. Run the washer through the rinse cycle and see if you can see water dripping out of the bottom. Maybe easier said than done if it is in a tight space.
Did the new machine start leaking right away? I would pull the machine out and take the top and side panels off - it'll be a minor PITA but it's probably just a matter of unscrewing enough screws - then run a cycle and observe closely. That leak could be coming from anywhere and just dripping out the closest available hole in the bottom panel.
Agree with all of this. Seems unlikely the new machine is faulty but anything's possible. I also wondered about the connection hose, but I would hope they would have replaced that with a new washer.
Also good advice. Another thing that failed on my inspection was the water pressure. It was like 5 times the acceptable number, great showers but a mess waiting to happen. Not cheap to replace the water main pressure regulator, but cheaper than pipes bursting.
It's it a front or top loading machine? Our front loading washer will leak out of the door if there is too much stuff inside.
It may work and it may be "certified" to meet codes....but that doesn't mean they will be allowed depending on where you live.
If you are selling your home or have a rental that's up for inspection here in central Iowa I would take them out and replace with the proper pvc.
We used Bob's Sewerooter service. Came out in a few hours and cleaned it out. I think the charge was right around $100.
