Auto experts, I need insight on Chevy Suburbans and GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali

[CYDJ]

I have been doing a lot of research on 2010 - 2014 Chevy Suburbans, GMC Yukon XLs and Yukon XL Denalis. I have learned to tow what I have been towing with my 2003 suburban I'll need to specify a 3.42 rear axle ratio and get the Trailering package, heavy duty (basically the engine oil and transmission coolers).

I basically use my Suburban as a 4WD pickup with a topper and easy access to the back that can tow up to about 8,000# (not long distances and not often at all, usually more around 3-4,000#). If it had no back seats I wouldn't care. It does not have to be fancy, I'd like AC, a radio, cruise control, the basics. I also tend to drive my vehicles until they are not worth anything, so I am looking for something that will be end of life in 10 years and I'd like to start with as little rust as possible to help that happen (yes, I've been scouring inland TX and the Southwest for units.)

My questions for the auto experts on Cyclonefanatic.

1) If you were looking at these 3 vehicles would you pick one over the other for any reasons?
2) Would you prioritize mileage over year, or year over mileage?
3) What would you expect the lifetime of one of these vehicles to be?
4) Is there some reason that the Yukon XL Denalis trend a little less $ compared to fairly equally equipped Yukon XLs (or refute this notion.)?
5) Are there any good places to pick up reliable 2500s? They really gouge you at the dealerships as I think they are rare in the general population.
6) Any other advice you would give me about these specific units (engine, suspension, braking, absolute must options (other than what I have already mentioned.)

Thanks in advance for your kind submissions.

CyDJ

 

[I@ST1]

I’d buy new and alway do. You never know the actual condition of a used vehicle.

 

[NWICY]

I pick mileage over age. Especially if you drive them into the ground. I had to give up milage on my last pick up to fit the budget. But that was before the giant escalation ended up getting something that had 80,000 on it in the past I had been able to get 20,000 mile vehicles. Bought at auction was still about 5000 under a dealer.

 

[IceCyIce]

Mileage is not a major issue today assuming PM is religious. An older car with low miles may have more issues than a newer higher mileage maintained vehicle.

 

[cmjh10]

Always buy with cash. It’s the CF way.

 

[Nader_uggghhh]

Can't go wrong with a 5.3L LS. They're nearly indestructible. Transmission is likely to go out before milage is ever an issue.

 

[Acylum]

Have you seen gas prices lately?

 

[0u812]

CYDJ said:
I have been doing a lot of research on 2010 - 2014 Chevy Suburbans, GMC Yukon XLs and Yukon XL Denalis. I have learned to tow what I have been towing with my 2003 suburban I'll need to specify a 3.42 rear axle ratio and get the Trailering package, heavy duty (basically the engine oil and transmission coolers).

I basically use my Suburban as a 4WD pickup with a topper and easy access to the back that can tow up to about 8,000# (not long distances and not often at all, usually more around 3-4,000#). If it had no back seats I wouldn't care. It does not have to be fancy, I'd like AC, a radio, cruise control, the basics. I also tend to drive my vehicles until they are not worth anything, so I am looking for something that will be end of life in 10 years and I'd like to start with as little rust as possible to help that happen (yes, I've been scouring inland TX and the Southwest for units.)

My questions for the auto experts on Cyclonefanatic.

1) If you were looking at these 3 vehicles would you pick one over the other for any reasons? No huge reason, other than I prefer the ones that are NOT awd (better mileage, etc). Get one from a rust free state (look out west too, as I live in Oregon and have zero rust on my early 2000s suburbans and Silverados.
2) Would you prioritize mileage over year, or year over mileage? I dont prioritize either....go with general condition and if they have any maintenance records.
3) What would you expect the lifetime of one of these vehicles to be? I would say 400k miles if properly maintained.
4) Is there some reason that the Yukon XL Denalis trend a little less $ compared to fairly equally equipped Yukon XLs (or refute this notion.)? Not sure why this is.
5) Are there any good places to pick up reliable 2500s? They really gouge you at the dealerships as I think they are rare in the general population. Check fb marketplace, and use www.autotempest.com
6) Any other advice you would give me about these specific units (engine, suspension, braking, absolute must options (other than what I have already mentioned.). I prefer the non awd versions, and a 1500 will do most of what a lot of people need. A 2500 will do more but they are rare in the years you mention I believe.

Thanks in advance for your kind submissions.

CyDJ

 

[Cyclonesrule91]

Don't know much differences in the 3 but definitely stay away from AWD versions if you do much towing as they aren't made for towing much very often. You'll fry the AWD clutches pretty rapidly.

 

[CYDJ]

Don't know much differences in the 3 but definitely stay away from AWD versions if you do much towing as they aren't made for towing much very often. You'll fry the AWD clutches pretty rapidly.

Hi Rules,

Thanks for that tidbit. I suspected this, but had not been able to find that info anywhere. Even talked with my mechanic who's main job is transmissions and he said he didn't know if any problems with the AWD other than the lower gas mileage.

Do you know this from experience or just common knowledge.

Thanks,

 

[CYDJ]

I’d buy new and alway do. You never know the actual condition of a used vehicle.

I'd love to buy new. I just don't have 80K laying around. ha! I hear I have to buy with cash, it's the CF way, right?

 

[Cyclonesrule91]

Hi Rules,

Thanks for that tidbit. I suspected this, but had not been able to find that info anywhere. Even talked with my mechanic who's main job is transmissions and he said he didn't know if any problems with the AWD other than the lower gas mileage.

Do you know this from experience or just common knowledge.

Thanks,

I have a good friend that had a 2015-2017 tahoe with AWD and he pulled a camper from Central Iowa out to Yellowstone and back and started to have issues. He took it to a mechanic when he got back and mechanic changed oil in the transfer case and it was black and smelled burnt. Changed the oil and told him he'd be smart to trade it in before it really started to act up.

I've also got a friend that is a certified GM mechanic and he told me the same thing and had horror stories like the one above.

 

[CYDJ]

I have a good friend that had a 2015-2017 tahoe with AWD and he pulled a camper from Central Iowa out to Yellowstone and back and started to have issues. He took it to a mechanic when he got back and mechanic changed oil in the transfer case and it was black and smelled burnt. Changed the oil and told him he'd be smart to trade it in before it really started to act up.

I've also got a friend that is a certified GM mechanic and he told me the same thing and had horror stories like the one above.

Not to get too nosey. Do you know if your friend had the trailering package, heavy duty. That is the engine oil cooler and transmission fluid cooler. That makes a 3000# difference in towing capability. I'm guessing that could ALSO have some thing to do with it. (Not that I don't believe you or appreciate your input, just trying to accumulate information to help me make a decision. So, thank you again.)

 

[Cyclonesrule91]

Not to get too nosey. Do you know if your friend had the trailering package, heavy duty. That is the engine oil cooler and transmission fluid cooler. That makes a 3000# difference in towing capability. I'm guessing that could ALSO have some thing to do with it. (Not that I don't believe you or appreciate your input, just trying to accumulate information to help me make a decision. So, thank you again.)

If I remember correctly his Tahoe came from the factory with the 2" tow receptacle hitch on it and I'm pretty sure that means the tow package is on the vehicle as well. Not 100% sure but I can ask him tomorrow as I'll see him then.

And the tow package has a transmission cooler yes, but if I remember my GM mechanic buddy explanation correctly the AWD clutches that get burnt towing are in the transfer case, not the transmission so in that case the transmission cooler won't help you as much. I can confirm with that buddy as well and let you know.

 

[ScottyP]

I didn't know Chevy had an AWD version of a Tahoe and Suburban. I thought rear wheel drive and 4WD were the only options.

 

[CYDJ]

I didn't know Chevy had an AWD version of a Tahoe and Suburban. I thought rear wheel drive and 4WD were the only options.

The ONLY AWD they have is the GMC Tahoe and Tahoe XL Denalis. Not Suburbans and nothing less than Denali has them, I don't believe.

 

[CYDJ]

If I remember correctly his Tahoe came from the factory with the 2" tow receptacle hitch on it and I'm pretty sure that means the tow package is on the vehicle as well. Not 100% sure but I can ask him tomorrow as I'll see him then.

And the tow package has a transmission cooler yes, but if I remember my GM mechanic buddy explanation correctly the AWD clutches that get burnt towing are in the transfer case, not the transmission so in that case the transmission cooler won't help you as much. I can confirm with that buddy as well and let you know.

OK, sorry. You are correct, the transfer case would not be supplied by that system.

I could see that being a problem. I wonder if the overcomplexity of the Denalis (which I think have air suspensions as well) might scare people off them. I have had a suburban for a long time, but I really only knew certain things. These vehicles have a LOT of variable options that make them good and bad for certain things.

Thanks everyone for your help.

 

[abcguyks]

Be wary of the OEM transmission oil coolers that GM adds as part of the trailer tow option package. They are woefully undersized and don't prevent dangerously high transmission fluid temps (frequently 130F above ambient temps and running up to 200F above ambient during long grades while pulling a trailer).

I have a 2014 Tahoe Z71 5.3L 4wd with the trailer tow package. Replaced both engine and the transmission last year at just over 100k vehicle miles. I've never towed more than 6000 lbs.

 

[JayV]

Have you considered a Unimog?

 

[CYDJ]

Be wary of the OEM transmission oil coolers that GM adds as part of the trailer tow option package. They are woefully undersized and don't prevent dangerously high transmission fluid temps (frequently 130F above ambient temps and running up to 200F above ambient during long grades while pulling a trailer).

I have a 2014 Tahoe Z71 5.3L 4wd with the trailer tow package. Replaced both engine and the transmission last year at just over 100k vehicle miles. I've never towed more than 6000 lbs.

That is good info from personal experience. Thanks!